This means that your headstock’s drill holes’ dimension is compatible with the tuning machines for installation. On the other hand, we have the shaft hole size. You have to make sure the tuning machines you are looking to buy are compatible with your guitar. Strats and Teles have a 6-inline design, which essentially means a straight row of six tuning machines. This layout configuration would not work for a Stratocaster or Telecaster type of guitar. This is because they have three tuning machines on one side of the headstock and three on the other. In essence, layout configuration refers to how companies design their tuners for a specific type of guitar.įor example, Gibson guitars designed their guitars to have a 3×3 configuration. I’ll talk about layout configuration first. There are two factors you need to be on the lookout for, layout configuration and shaft hole size in terms of compatibility. In reality, all of the companies listed above are great options for you, and your decision might come down to preference. They are the Godfathers of Stratocaster-type guitars, therefore, their quality and compatibility will undoubtedly be entirely accurate for your Strat. Lastly, if you are looking to incorporate tuning machines for your Stratocaster, you better take a look at Fender’s tuning machines. Another great company is Graph Tech, which is Canada-based. Some of the best brands out there include USA-based companies Grover, Gotoh, and Sperzel. Not only this, but by getting them from a well-known brand, you are also probably going to have some warranties and good customer service in case you were to encounter any issues. The main reason for this is that getting them from a well-known brand ensures you of their quality and effectiveness. The first thing you need to consider when purchasing locking tuners is their brand. The Gotoh SD91 Locking tuners with HAPM have a great vintage look, and once familiarized with the locking/height mechanisms they work great.Video can’t be loaded because JavaScript is disabled: Are Locking Tuners Worth It? Advantages, Trade-Offs & Changing Strings () Brand My only concern is this: I have broken several strings (strings 1 through 3) at the locking mechanism perhaps this is because I have installed and removed them a few times, but I have not tightened these particular pegs by hand I have let the string pressure alone lock these strings in place. Considering how finicky these guitars can be, mine plays very well now and stays in tune with a bit of finesse. I removed the string tree and applied 3-in-1 oil to the brass nut and to the saddles/bridge where the strings make contact. I have 4 black springs installed - both outer, center, and an addition one on the high string side of the claw. I reinstalled the bridge flush to the body and adjusted screws 1 and 6 as the pivot poles the remaining inner 4 screws are backed off barely almost flush with the bridge to limit the number of contact points. Ill have to continue monitoring this I removed the synchronized tremolo and applied chapstick to the body and the underside of the bridge. I realized that simply threading the low strings through the peg holes and tuning to pitch is not enough to lock them in place I had to slightlly tighten these posts (#4 in the Gotoh illustration with the tuners) using a coin - they stay in tune much better. Of course I wouldnt trust any guitar to stay in tune after bending low E and A 1.5 to 2 steps, but they were going way flat. On the low E and A, I noticed that they would go considerably flat. This is an Yngwie Strat and I am aggressive with my bends, especially while testing these tuners. I played it for a while and made adjustments. I spent some time getting to know the tuners and adjusted their height. I wound up using screws with a larger diameter to anchor the tuners - everything looks great. Once everything was good and dry, I flush cut the plugs and used a sharp 1" chisel to smooth them out and lightly sanded them off. When fitting the tuners in place, I busted one of the screws and wasted a day fixing it after extracting the busted screw, I plugged the hole with hide glue and a dowel, and plugged all the old screw holes with toothpicks. Took a couple of minutes for each one - the bushings went in nicely with some good thumb pressure. I received the tuners the other day and the results are in - good and bad: Most of the peg holes were a tad small for the 10mm bushings to go in by hand (I didn't want to resort to using a hammer): To address this, I simply took an allen wrench just under the size of the holes, wrapped sandpaper around it, and carefully reamed them out.
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